The trail is designed to encourage both visitors and Hongkongers to slow down and take in the city at a walking pace. “When we’re not walking, we miss details and the stories behind spaces,” says Patricia Lau, the Welfare Council’s CEO. “Even though places may change in appearance, the stories behind them remain. What can we learn from that history that can help with revitalisation? What kind of wisdom can older generations share with us?”

A dedicated app, “Kowloon City in Transformation” (躍變•龍城), contains maps, points out places of interest, and uses augmented reality overlays to bring checkpoints to life. Though the English and simplified Chinese versions of some app functions are still in development, there is still plenty for everyone to discover both on the app and the road. Kowloon City is starting to change with the times, but its past is still everywhere. As we weave our way through the streets, Chan points out a boarded-up stall that used to sell shoes.

“Shops like this have years of history, but many haven’t been open for a while,” she tells me. Their owners may not be around, but the spaces they have left behind remain. They tell stories I’d never have discovered if I hadn’t walked down Hau Wong Road.

Find your way

The five routes on the Kowloon City Themed Walking Trail are suitable for visitors of all ages, with accessible options.

Route 1: Kowloon Walled City

Loop around the perimeter of the Kowloon Walled City Park from Carpenter Road to Hau Wong Road. Study the elaborate drawing and 3D model of the notorious Walled City inside the park, and see if you can spot local celebrity paper-tearing artist Uncle Man.

Route 2: Local culture

Explore the heritage of Kowloon City and its Chiu Chow and Thai populations. Stop by the site of the old Kai Tak Airport and Sung Wong Toi Garden for a glimpse into an earlier time.

Route 3: Community art walk

From Pak Tai Street to San Ma Tau Street, you’ll pass by the slaughterhouse-turned-art park Cattle Depot Artist Village and the colourful tenement building cluster in the area known as the “13 Streets”.

Route 4: Waterfront leisure walk

Visit the “Fishtail Rock”, an aptly named natural rock formation known for its good feng shui. From the waterside, take in the night views of the city skyline across the harbour – and explore how the waterfront has changed over time.

Route 5: Temple and church walk

On this route, keep an eye out for places of worship and their contrasting architecture, from the green roofs of the Pak Tai and Kwun Yam temples to the modern Holy Carpenter Church. Visit the diminutive Fuk Tak Temple, which looks squeezed into the middle of the street as a result of the district being developed around it.