As is Mackie Mayor, a converted factory with food stalls selling everything from fried chicken bao to Neapolitan pizza and glasses of natural wine. There is live music on weekends and, along the sharing tables, strangers strike up easy conversations in a way that would seem almost psychopathic in London.

While the city might be nailing the laid-back indie vibe, it also has a glittering Michelin star in its gaze. The most likely recipient is Mana, headed by Simon Martin, an ex-Noma chef whose food has taken the city by storm. His tasting menu is only three months old but is already the stuff of legends – although be sure to check your free will at the door along with your coat. "Swapping courses on my menu is like reading a book with the chapters out of order," he says. "Everything has been meticulously planned."