It’s not Düsseldorf’s problem; it’s ours. We travellers and travel writers have all become obsessed with the narrative of reinvention and hipness. Düsseldorf is not hip. You can get excellent coffee throughout the city, but no one calls it ‘artisan’ and nowhere do you sit on upturned tea chests being served by tattooed Ned Kelly impersonators. It’s one of the half dozen most important modern arts cities in the world; but there’s no Biennale or Basel jamboree to get excited about.

I asked the head brewer at Uerige what he thought of the craft beer movement. He mused for a second and said: ‘I think we have been doing craft beer since 1862.’

Typical. Honestly, you despair of the place. It’s the sixth most liveable city in the world, according to the latest Mercer Quality of Living survey, and the ninth most famous town in Germany, and yet nowhere on anyone’s list of the hottest places to visit. The Rhine buzz is really a quiet hum. But just give it a go. It’ll be our little secret – our own special sticke.

Düsseldorf to do list

For more about Düsseldorf go to duesseldorf-tourismus.de

Stay

The writer stayed in a duplex apartment with balcony in quiet Kronprinzenstrasse. airbnb.com

The De Medici is a new and grand small hotel in the heart of the Altstadt. deraghotels.de

The Hyatt Regency in Media Harbour is also new. Super location, wonderful design, fine restaurant – packed with business travellers during the week, deals on offer at the weekend. dusseldorf.regency.hyatt.com

Breidenbacher Hof is part of upscale hotel group Capella and handily located on the Königsallee. capellahotels.com/dusseldorf/

See

K20 and K21 museums, covering work from the past and current century respectively. kunstsammlung.de

Düsseldorf Opera House. operamrhein.de

Tonhalle concert venue. tonhalle.de

Galeries Hans Mayer – the most prominent in a town of art dealers. galeriehansmayer.de

The art academy of Düsseldorf. kunstakademie-duesseldorf.de

Eat and drink

Hausmann’s serves great beer and beef. Say no more. hausmanns-duesseldorf.de

Uerige does Düsseldorf Altbier – and fine German whisky – as well as great platters and atmosphere. uerige.de

Heinemann Confiserie is a café serving champagne truffles and tea since 1932. konditorei-heinemann.de

Et Kabuffke is a hole-in-the-wall bar for drinking the town’s firewater, killepitsch. Flingerstreet 1

Shop

Müller & Böhm is a book and record store in poet Heinrich Heine’s old house. literaturmueller.de

Rita Lagune couture. rita-lagune.de

Moritz Wenn Studio sells menswear, denim and accessories inspired by the workwear of the industrial Rhine. moritz-wenz.de

Fast track to Europe's creative heart

Get a map, draw a wide circle around Düsseldorf and you can see how many other metropolises are within easy reach. Here, Discovery picks five dynamic cities in four countries to visit.