At Restaurant Forum (they’re big on their Roman heritage round here), we tuck into espinacas a la crema, a spinach-filled, cannelloni gratin, followed by tender duck breast in plum sauce (a Catalan classic) and one of my all-time favourite puddings – crema Catalana (the Catalans’ own take on crème brulée) that comes served in a traditional earthenware dish.

The next morning we visit Tarragona’s Roman Forum itself, a sprawling complex with pillars, buildings and wells, now tucked away in a residential area amid blocks of flats, hardware shops and local bars. Then, after squeezing in a visit to the Old Town’s huge 12th century cathedral – an impressive mix of gothic and Romanesque architecture, stained-glass windows and intricately carved figures of the apostles on the façade – we are back on the road, along the coast to Torredembarra, a tiny town with a string of good fish restaurants on the beach.

It’s a perfect afternoon, not a cloud in the radiant blue sky. We sit in the smart beachfront terrace of the family-run La Sirga restaurant, savouring steamed mussels, followed by simple grilled bream with pisto (a Catalan ratatouille). But the star of the show is the homemade ice cream. With our tubs of salty-sweet pistachio and hazelnut in hand, Iris and I kick off our shoes and wade through the warm, silky sand.

The next day, a 20-minute drive inland takes us to the small town of Reus. Although these days the town is best known for the small airport used by budget airlines, Reus is one of my favourite little nooks of Catalunya – a forgotten jewel of a town, full of floridly decorated art deco townhouses. Reus was also the birthplace of maverick architect Gaudí.

The maestro never built anything here, but the town is now home to the Gaudí Centre – a brilliantly interactive museum exploring his life and work, where you can create your own undulating, Gaudí-style roof. Then, after a quick tapas stop for some excellent calamares (battered, fried squid) and croquetas (battered, fried mashed potatoes) at Casa Coder – an art nouveau restaurant bar on the grand square next to the museum, we were off in the Fiat once more for the final leg of our trip.