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While Shanghai gleams with fashion-forward cool, the Chinese capital rejoices in a more heritage-led hipsterdom. Beijing’s hutong alleyways are a trove of boutiques and bites, and there’s always something else to be found under the surface. Then, of course, there are the shining gems of history: the Forbidden City at the very heart of the city, and The Great Wall just outside it: two landmarks which are truly worth your time.
1/tab.galleryImage.size}Set foot in the Forbidden City, ancient home to a long line of emperors…
2/tab.galleryImage.size}Or explore Beijing’s more modern wonders, its skyscrapers
3/tab.galleryImage.size}Single-storey brick buildings hark back to Beijing’s history, but the narrow hutong alleyways they lie on are often home to new cafes, restaurants and concept stores
4/tab.galleryImage.size}Several sections of the Great Wall of China are an easy jaunt from the capital…
5/tab.galleryImage.size}While closer to home lie the manicured grounds of the Summer Palace
6/tab.galleryImage.size}For the first time in history, the Forbidden City’s painstakingly restored Qianlong Garden will open to the public…
7/tab.galleryImage.size}And a cluster of former military factory buildings now houses the 798 artists’ village
8/tab.galleryImage.size}Beijing is the birthplace of crisp glazed Peking duck…
9/tab.galleryImage.size}But make sure you leave room for street food classics like the ubiquitous – and delicious – jianbing
10/tab.galleryImage.size}Wooden carvings and screens in the reception hall of the Forbidden City’s Qianlong GardenPhoto: Courtesy of Palace Museum
11/tab.galleryImage.size}The Emperor Qianlong indulged his love of music in the Qianlong Garden theatrePhoto: Courtesy of Palace Museum
12/tab.galleryImage.size}Ceramic figures with an imperial yellow glaze on the gables of the Forbidden CityPhoto: Getty Images
13/tab.galleryImage.size}The Summer Palace pavilion used to be home to amazing festivals in years pastPhoto: Getty Images
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Set foot in the Forbidden City, ancient home to a long line of emperors…
2/13
Or explore Beijing’s more modern wonders, its skyscrapers
3/13
Single-storey brick buildings hark back to Beijing’s history, but the narrow hutong alleyways they lie on are often home to new cafes, restaurants and concept stores
4/13
Several sections of the Great Wall of China are an easy jaunt from the capital…
5/13
While closer to home lie the manicured grounds of the Summer Palace
6/13
For the first time in history, the Forbidden City’s painstakingly restored Qianlong Garden will open to the public…
7/13
And a cluster of former military factory buildings now houses the 798 artists’ village
8/13
Beijing is the birthplace of crisp glazed Peking duck…
9/13
But make sure you leave room for street food classics like the ubiquitous – and delicious – jianbing
10/13
Wooden carvings and screens in the reception hall of the Forbidden City’s Qianlong Garden
Photo: Courtesy of Palace Museum
11/13
The Emperor Qianlong indulged his love of music in the Qianlong Garden theatre
Photo: Courtesy of Palace Museum
12/13
Ceramic figures with an imperial yellow glaze on the gables of the Forbidden City
Photo: Getty Images
13/13
The Summer Palace pavilion used to be home to amazing festivals in years past
Photo: Getty Images
Things to do
We've chosen the must-see highlights of this fantastic city.
Closed off from the public eye, the Forbidden City's Qianlong Garden has lain dormant for nearly a century under the care of the Palace Museum. This 18th century treasure, built for the Qing-era Qianlong Emperor as a planned retirement lodge where he could indulge his love of art, architecture and music, contains some of the rarest and most elaborate relics in the world.
The Qianlong Garden comprises 27 buildings in the north-eastern corner of the Forbidden City. A decade ago, a 20-year project between the Palace Museum and the World Monuments Fund was launched to restore the complex to its former glory.
The Qianlong Emperor's money-no-object brief to courtiers and craftsmen was simple: build a miniature version of the imperial palace, an aesthetic wonderworld, using the very best materials. The enclave also had the finest views: the highest point looks out over the orange roofs of the Forbidden City and towards Coal Hill north of the compound.
For all the intricate interior design and architectural extravagance, one of the emperor's favourite spots was a custom-built rockery containing grottoes, steep trails and a pagoda. It is a place of peace and solitude, with only birds singing to break the silence; it is possibly the quietest place in the entire city of 20 million people.
1/tab.galleryImage.size}Wooden carvings and screens in the reception hall of the Forbidden City’s Qianlong GardenPhoto: Courtesy of Palace Museum
2/tab.galleryImage.size}The Emperor Qianlong indulged his love of music in the Qianlong Garden theatrePhoto: Courtesy of Palace Museum
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Wooden carvings and screens in the reception hall of the Forbidden City’s Qianlong Garden
Photo: Courtesy of Palace Museum
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The Emperor Qianlong indulged his love of music in the Qianlong Garden theatre
Photo: Courtesy of Palace Museum
Things to do
We've chosen the must-see highlights of this fantastic city.
Although Emperors of yore travelled in pomp and style when decamping to the cooler climes of the Summer Palace from the downtown Forbidden City, it was a desperately slow journey that took the best part of a day. Modern-day commuters have a speedier option: a subway that deposits passengers a few hundred metres from one of the city's most majestic imperial sites.
The Summer Palace, with its shaded greenery, was where the emperor fled to escape insufferable summers. The palace park benefited from a US$7 million renovation leading up to the Beijing 2008 Olympic Games. The Fragrant Buddha Pavilion, Long Corridor and Cloud Fairyland Hall were all given facelifts, leaving them in pristine condition; next is the Four Great Regions, a cluster of lama Tibetan temples which was recently reopened to the public.
As with most major attractions in China, the early bird catches the worm. In this case, arriving early guarantees the peaceful environment that would have prevailed during imperial times. Bring a picnic if you plan to spend any length of time in the expansive grounds – a perfect spot being the banks of the gorgeous Kunming Lake.
1/tab.galleryImage.size}Ceramic figures with an imperial yellow glaze on the gables of the Forbidden CityPhoto: Getty Images
2/tab.galleryImage.size}The Summer Palace pavilion used to be home to amazing festivals in years pastPhoto: Getty Images
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Ceramic figures with an imperial yellow glaze on the gables of the Forbidden City
Photo: Getty Images
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The Summer Palace pavilion used to be home to amazing festivals in years past
Photo: Getty Images
Things to do
We've chosen the must-see highlights of this fantastic city.
Eat
Dine in a historic hutong
Cuisine and culture go hand in hand, and Beijing’s historic hutongs house a number of hidden treasures. Mercante is a traditional Italian trattoria, with interiors that draw upon both the Italian and Chinese countryside. TRB Hutong takes more contemporary approach, serving up Mediterranean fare in a stunning setting: a light-filled, artfully converted factory in the grounds of a 600-year old temple – a genuine encapsulation of Beijing’s mix of ancient and modern.
Eat
1949 – The Hidden City
Set in a former warehouse near the popular Sanlitun bar district, 1949 – The Hidden City is an industrial-chic space which combines bars, restaurants, galleries and clubs. Make time for the aptly named Duck de Chine restaurant, whose specialty is – unsurprisingly – duck prepared using both French and Chinese classical cooking techniques.
See
The Forbidden City
There’s nothing more emblematic of the capital than this vast palace complex, which sits at the very centre of the city. The Forbidden City earned its name because it was off-limits to mere mortals for some five centuries. Now, anyone can walk in the footsteps of emperors. Keep going north past the Forbidden City and you'll see Jingshan Park, once an imperial garden. Its five peaks are made up of the dirt dug up during the construction of the Forbidden City's moats back in the Ming dynasty.
See
Support the arts
China's contemporary art scene is rising and rising. The 798 Art Zone is one of the capital’s oldest-standing artists’ communities, and you can easily spend a day wandering round the many galleries carved out of the decommissioned factory grounds in the area. If you’re looking to delve deeper, check out underground arts spaces DRC No.12 and The Bunker. DRC No 12 is housed in a converted apartment in a former compound for diplomatic staff, while the Bunker lies in a transformed Sino-Japanese war bunker. You can’t just walk in, though – these spaces are open by appointment only.
See
Seek out Beijing’s museums
Museums are a dime a dozen, but not all are equal. The Palace Museum comes part-and-parcel of a visit to the Forbidden City, but you’ll want to dig a little deeper for some real insight into the city’s history. The Capital Museum offers an over-arching introduction into the history of the land and its people. Head further back in time at the Zhoukoudian Peking Man Museum, which documents the discovery of the eponymous pre-human. Elsewhere, nondescript office building façade of the Poly Art Museum (Poly Building, 14 Dongzhimen Nandajie, Dongcheng) conceals a small but wonderful treasure trove of artefacts – everything from ancient bronzes to 5th- century Buddha statues.
Drink
Sample capital brews
Craft brewers are a dime-a-dozen in the world these days, but some of Beijing’s brewmasters have set themselves apart. Lifelong friends Kris and Alex – the duo behind Jing-A Brewing – infuse their beers with homegrown flavours, from red rice to mandarin oranges, resulting in award-winning brews served in its multiple taprooms and brewpub. Elsewhere, Great Leap Brewing’s tea, pepper and spice-infused beers have earned a loyal clientele and Slow Boat Brewery’s small-batch, artisan approach has earned it accolades.
See
Jingshan (Coal Hill) Park
Keep going north past the Forbidden City and you'll see Jingshan Park, once an imperial garden. The hill with its five peaks consists of the dirt dug up during the construction of the Forbidden City's moats during the Ming dynasty.
Location
Jingshanqian Dajie, opposite the north gate of the Forbidden City
Shop
Find antiques, vintage and pre-loved classics
Ditch those run-of-the-mill trinkets for something a little more special at one of the city’s many antique stores or flea markets. For vintage clothing, jewellery and other unique finds, head to Gulou Dongdaijie near the Nanluoguxiang hutong area. Meanwhile, Panjiayuan Flea Market in Chaoyang boasts more than 500,000 square feet of antique dealers and cultural curio stores, selling everything from furniture to ornate jewellery and calligraphy brushes.
Drink
Mao Mao Chong
Tucked away from the Sanlitun district, the husband-and-wife team of Mao Mao Chong offers more discerning clientele an international selection of drinks and nibbles. The cocktails are as fresh and inventive as the décor and are complemented by its warm and inviting vibe. The bar also occasionally features guest bartenders from some of the best restaurants and bars in Beijing.
Location
12 Ban Chang Hutong, Dong Cheng, Beijing Jiaodaokou South Street
Roaming Beijing’s busy streets builds up an appetite, and its many street food stalls offer welcome relief. Popular locations Wangfujing’s Snack Street (Dongdan, Dongcheng District), where stallholders sell scorpions and insects on skewers, as well as more approachable traditional snacks like chestnuts and candied fruit. On the Huguosi Hutong Snack Street (Xicheng District), snack on everything from deep fried dough sticks to cold noodles and stuffed offal. A popular breakfast snack is jianbing – a savoury crepe filled with meat, egg and spring onions. One of our favourites can be had at Dahua Jianbing, located in the Daxing Hutong.
Shop
Wudaoying Alley
Once a historic hutong, these days Wudaoying Alley has a distinctly more contemporary feel, lined with independent shops: such as Plastered, which sells Beijing-inspired streetwear and accessories, or Delia (52 Wudaoying Hutong) and its stock of vintage homeware and more. Rest up in between emptying that wallet at one of the hutong’s many eateries. Cafés serve traditional teas or artisan coffee, while the food options range from Buddhist-inspired vegetarian cuisine at King’s Joy to Western brunch fare.
See
Explore the emperor’s garden
It was closed to public eye for nearly a century. But after a painstaking, decades-long restoration, the Forbidden City's Qianlong Garden is scheduled to open to the public later this year. This 18th-century treasure comprises 27 buildings in the north-eastern corner of the Forbidden City. The jewel in the crown is the Juanqinzhai, the ‘Studio of Exhaustion from Diligent Service’, an extravagant pavilion built for an emperor… who never used it.
This museum's nondescript façade – hidden inside the commercial New Poly Plaza – misrepresents its treasure trove of cultural artefacts, many of which have been rescued and reunited throughout the years. Ancient bronzes from the Shang and Zhou dynasties are displayed alongside Buddha statues dating back to the 5th to 8th century.
Location
15/F New Poly Plaza, No.1 North Chaoyangmen St., Dongcheng District
Echo Wall and Triple Echo Stones at Temple of Heaven
The Temple of Heaven, constructed in 1420, was where the emperors worshipped and implored blessings for China. Built to conform to Taoist symbolism, the temple is famous for its feats of acoustical engineering. There is an echo wall, where whispers are carried effortlessly around the curved arena. The Triple Echo Stones are a marvel: stand on the first stone in the central path and clap to summon an echo. Two echoes are delivered on the second stone, and three echoes reverberate when clapping on the third stone.
Location
East of Tianqiao, Tiantanlu, Chongwen District
Drink
Mix with Beijing’s best cocktails
Beijing’s bars offer an eclectic mix of cocktails and atmospheres. With a discreet entrance but a neon pink sign, Scandal (Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang) is kind of a loud speakeasy, and the drinks – each named for its most prominent flavour – really speak for themselves, bringing innovative takes and techniques to the glass. Meanwhile the team at Mao Mao Chong (2 Banchang Hutong, Dongcheng) offers a selection of inventive cocktails infused with Chinese ingredients, ranging from Sichuan peppercorns to Oolong tea.
See
Wander ancient alleyways
The very soul of Beijing lies in its hutongs, the ancient alleyways that criss-cross the centre of the city. Wandering around these enchanting lanes in the Dongcheng and Xicheng districts is by far the best way to experience the capital's street life in all its raucous glory. Nanluoguxiang, just a short walk from the Forbidden City, is full of quirky shops, bars and restaurants, while Caochang and its unusually curved alleyway offer a glimpse of old Beijing.
Shop
Nanluoguxiang
Take a stroll through one of Beijing’s many hutongs, the traditional courtyard alleys that dot the city. Nanluoguxiang in Gulou is one of the most popular ones to explore, thanks to the unique cafés and boutiques that sell anything from retro Chinese-style kitsch to hand-crafted wallets. For a quick break, dip into cozy Café Alba nearby to fuel up on espresso.
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