In the grey-brick alleyways of old Beijing, Capital Spirits is a buzzing little joint of worn beams, flickering Edison bulbs and a bold proposition: the bar specialises in tasting flights of baijiu, the national spirit of China that’s as old as Kublai Khan and has a kick like an angry camel. And they’re served with a side of schooling on the oft-misunderstood tipple.

Frequently described in the Western media as "the world’s most-drunk spirit you’ve never heard of", baijiu is similar in potency to whisky. It’s usually distilled from sorghum, a cereal grain, and a bottle costs from a few RMB to the price of an iPhone or three. Traditionally paired with food, baijiu is the toast of Chinese banquets and business dinners, knocked back neat in thimble-sized glasses. It tastes… well, tasting notes are nothing if not contradictory: pineapple, cheese, soy sauce, liquorice, anise, mushroom, gasoline, old socks. Confused?