Nagoya is fast establishing itself as a compelling alternative to Japan’s “golden triangle” of tourist hotspots, Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka – and it’s easy to see why. The fourth most populous city in Japan boasts notable historical and modern appeal alike. With dedicated museums, it serves as a gateway to discovering Japan’s ninja history and the omnipresent maneki neko cat statues said to bring good luck. In addition to its rich cultural heritage, this city also has a eclectic shopping scene. Symbolically, it sits barely half an hour away from both Inuyama Castle – one of the nation’s 12 historic “original” castles, built in 1537 – and Toyota, birthplace of Japan’s modern automotive empire.
But it’s much more than a bustling metropolis and growing tourism hotspot. Long-overlooked, food in Nagoya is finally getting its due. Ready to dig in? Here are eight of the best restaurants in Nagoya to tick off while you’re in town, many of which serve local specialities honed over generations.
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It’s essential you try the Nagoya speciality of miso katsu at least once when you visit, and there are few better places to start than Misokatsu Yabaton . For more than 65 years, this culinary institution has been serving up its distinctive deep-fried pork cutlets dripping in dark red miso-based sauce. Other regional specialities done right at this popular chain include doteni meat miso stew and double-fried tebasaki chicken wings.
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Once a maze of warehouses and canals, trading everything from timber to salt, the city’s Nagono district has been transformed into a hip haven of boutiques, restaurants and cafés. Make sure you check out tea shop Mirume , which sources its leaves directly from the neighbouring Mie prefecture. The green tea is a particular hit, served both hot and cold in on-the-go bottles. For a more leisurely experience, head up to the first floor and linger over a tea flight and wagashi sweets.
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In business for more than a century, Miya Kishimen is keeping Nagoya cuisine’s traditional style of noodles alive. Kishimen are a remarkably versatile style of flat, wide wheat udon, served chilled in summer, or in a hot broth with spinach, fried tofu and fish cakes in cooler months. The Jingu branch’s location is especially charming, situated between lush trees and a neighbouring pond.
Nagoya’s home prefecture of Aichi is Japan’s second-largest producer of eel, and this storied restaurant puts the freshwater unagi variety firmly in the spotlight. Tempting visitors from the nearby Atsuta-jingu Shrine for over 150 years, the original branch claims authorship of Atsuta Horaiken ’s legally trademarked hitsumabushi style. Expect slices of grilled eel slathered with a sweet soy- and rice wine-based sauce, served over a bed of rice. It’s customary to enjoy the meal in distinct stages: first appreciate the original flavour, before adding spring onion, seaweed and wasabi and, finally, by dipping the unagi in a light broth, or green tea.
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The local Morita brand has been brewing sake for over 350 years. To sample the local rice wine in a sleek modern environment, head to the group’s downtown izakaya Kuroudo Kuriya Kinshachi , which loosely translates as “brewmaster’s kitchen”. To balance out the booze, nibble on appetising meaty bites including fried Mikawa chicken, grilled Hida beef and Manila clams steamed with salt and sake.
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For a more traditional izakaya experience, make your way to Daijin , a cosy no-frills watering hole that emphasises quality produce over all else. Established in 1907, and in its current home since 1954, it’s conveniently located a short walk from the historic Misono-za theatre and Nagoya City Science Museum. Daijin’s kozara, or small dishes, vary daily, ensuring there’ll always be a fresh selection of vegetables, fish and meat on offer whenever you visit.
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A stone’s throw from Daijin, behind an unassuming storefront, sits Shimasho , a famed favourite that’s been keeping Nagoyans’ hunger at bay since 1949. The speciality here is doteyaki – beef tendon stewed in Aichi prefecture’s own hatcho miso – a thick reddish-brown sauce with a full-bodied flavour. Another local classic is miso oden, which sees a host of veggies, tofu and eggs stewed for hours, or even days.
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This list wouldn’t be complete without a Japanese style sandwich. For nearly eight decades, this Nagoya stalwart has served coffee to thirsty students and businesspeople alike. In 1960, Konparu came up with a sandwich menu, with fried shrimp and ogura red bean toast among the most popular snacking staples. A particularly enticing speciality is ogura on buttered toast, served with a boiled egg – and there are few better places to sample this moreish breakfast staple in town.