Disentangling Hanoi’s interwoven historical and cultural threads is no easy feat – especially if you only have a weekend to spare. Shared between the trading core, French Quarter and tree-fringed lakes are storied heritage sites, world-class cultural institutions and some of the best street food in Asia. Not sure where to begin? Here, we demystify the chaotic capital with our weekend guide to Hanoi.
Morning
Start your day the local way: with coffee. There’s a myriad of options in the Old Quarter, Hanoi’s ancient trading precinct, but we recommend the ca phe sua da (Vietnamese coffee with ice and condensed milk) at Hanoi House . Built in the 19th century, the café overlooks St Joseph Cathedral and moonlights as a cocktail bar.
After finishing your coffee, head north and get lost in the Old Quarter. Snap a photo of Hanoi Train Street, then explore the cacophonous Hang Thiec Street, which houses the neighbourhood’s metal workers, and Lan Ong Street, lined with aromatic apothecaries.
Credit: John S Lander/Getty Images
Credit: John S Lander/Getty Images
Mid-morning and lunch
Before lunch, transport yourself back in time to the Temple of Literature, which was established in the 11th century and expanded several times by Vietnam’s various dynasties. The series of bucolic courtyards offers a crash course on Hanoi’s millennium-long history, culminating in a magnificent two-storey worship house.
A tip: the app-based audio guide that you can download on your phone is clear, informative and reasonably priced, so bring along your earphones.
A stone’s throw from the Temple of Literature are two Michelin-starred restaurants. Gia Restaurant (open for lunch on Fridays and Saturdays only) is a fine dining extravaganza of contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. For something more traditional that won’t break the bank, try Tam Vi , which is just around the corner.
Afternoon and dinner
After lunch, head north along Hoang Dieu Street and then east along Phan Dinh Phung Street for a scenic 30-minute stroll, nestled between lofty trees and heritage architecture, to Manzi Art Space, Exhibition Space and Café . Alternatively, you can take a 10-minute taxi ride. Manzi, split between two close-by locations, is one of Hanoi’s premier contemporary art galleries, featuring one-of-a-kind mementos crafted by burgeoning local artists.
For a very different kind of shopping experience, skirt the corner and visit 54 Traditions , which boasts a vast collection of antiques made by the country’s various ethnolinguistic groups. There’s usually a staff member on hand to offer a tour of the space.
In the late afternoon, head to Truc Bach Lake and settle in at one of the many cafes or bars beside the water. Dine on pho cuon (fresh spring rolls with stir-fried beef) at Pho Cuon 31 or a steaming bowl of pho at Pho Huyen . Pho is typically eaten in the morning, but this eatery serves the dish all day. Lastly, head back to your hotel for a good night’s sleep to recharge for tomorrow’s early start.
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Morning and coffee
Try to be up and out by 6am to prepare for a loop of Hoan Kiem Lake. Early morning is the best time to experience this corner of the city, which transforms into an exercise hub at dawn. Look out for the various mythological creatures carved into the temples and pagodas – keen eyes will spot dragons, unicorns, turtles, horses and phoenixes.
While various cafés encircle the lake, Café Dinh stands out as one of the originators of egg coffee, a Hanoi speciality. Once you’ve enjoyed your morning cup of joe, hop over the Huc Bridge to visit the 19th century Ngoc Son Temple. It’s best to get there as soon as it opens at 8am to avoid the crowds.
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Mid-morning, lunch and afternoon
Move south of Hoan Kiem Lake and explore Hanoi’s French Quarter, a historic neighbourhood with a dark past – one that is remembered in the various museums nestled in the area. The Vietnam National Museum of History is the country’s best history museum, featuring exhibits that begin with the Paleolithic age, through Vietnam’s dozen or so dynasties and cover more recent events, including the American War.
For lunch, don’t miss bun cha (vermicelli noodles with grilled pork and a herb salad) at Bun Cha Huong Lien , where former President Obama and celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain broke bread in 2016.
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Dinner and the evening
After a delicious meal, consider visiting some of the neighbourhood’s other famous museums, like Hoa Lo Prison , an old French jail. Stay in the French Quarter until dinner at Luk Lak , which serves traditional dishes with modern flair. From here, it’s a short walk to one of two water puppet theatres: Thang Long and Lotus . The former has more regular showings while the latter offers a more intimate experience.
For a memorable last night, head out to one of the city’s many cocktail bars. You could circle back to where you started for a drink at Hanoi House. Alternatively, Aura, with an eclectic events schedule; Ne , known for its pho cocktail; and The Haflington , named one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars, are all great options.