6 of the world’s best restaurants, according to Ikoyi’s Chef Jeremy Chan

As half of the duo behind two-Michelin-starred Ikoyi , Jeremy Chan is one of the most acclaimed names on London’s white-hot dining scene. British-born to Chinese Canadian parents, Chan grew up in Hong Kong, Canada and the UK and dabbled in finance before the lure of gastronomy became too tempting to ignore.

Following time at Copenhagen’s legendary Noma and Hibiscus in London, in 2017 he opened Ikoyi alongside childhood friend Iré Hassan-Odukale. Here, hyper-seasonal ingredients are celebrated to dazzling effect on a menu that, like its creators, can’t be pigeonholed into one culture.

Chan’s path in life and in food has been diverse and winding, giving him an appreciation for restaurants led with a sense of identity, curiosity and adventure. Here are six of his favourites embodying that ethos – and some of the best restaurants in the world that you should definitely add to your bucket list.

1. The French Laundry, California 

In the early 2000s, The French Laundry was one of the first restaurants that piqued my interest in becoming a chef. What I loved there was the teamwork and the sourcing of every single ingredient – like nothing I’d ever seen before. The restaurant’s chef-proprietor Thomas Keller was in the kitchen, and there was a real aura to the place. Social media has taken away some of the romance, especially in destination restaurants, because you can see them too much on the inside. But this was the first time that I had that feeling of romance and anticipation.

2. Silk Road, London

Silk Road (47 Camberwell Church Street, London) is probably my favourite: a little restaurant near where I live in south London. I’ve been going for more than 10 years for their simple, home-style Xinjiang cuisine – it’s never really changed. Everything is fresh, piping hot and comes out fast. There’s a sense of homeliness in the food. The noodles and dumplings are handmade and everything is reasonably priced. The style of service also gives me that feeling of growing up in Hong Kong. It’s fast, abrupt and impersonal, which I like. I don’t want to be asked “How’s business?”.

3. Ristorante Reale, Abruzzo

Ristorante Reale is one of the most mind-blowing and inspiring places I’ve ever been for food as an artform and expression of someone’s identity and soul. Chef Niko Romito doesn’t seem to cook for people other than himself. His style is unique, original and makes a mark.

Italy can be flamboyant and garish but also edgy and minimalist. Reale is one of the places that expresses Italian minimalism through food. It’s not simple; it’s very concentrated; and I like how austere, even spiritual, it is. He can serve a tiny piece of cauliflower as a main and still leave you satisfied.

4. The Four Horsemen, New York

I visited New York recently and had an awesome meal at The Four Horsemen , a small, hip wine bar. They had an incredible selection from producers like Stéphane Bernaudeau from the Loire Valley, which amazed me. They do a short menu of intense and well-executed food with big flavours, like an amazing pasta with cavolo nero and a spicy tomato sauce. Their burrata dessert is clever: sweet, salty and fresh.

5. The Chairman, Hong Kong

There’s something traditional and focused about The Chairman ; they delve into cooking rather than trends. It makes me wonder: if I was living in Hong Kong, would this be the style of food that I’d want to cook? They do things I could never imagine, with so much knowledge and intensity. I loved eating char siu growing up, and I also love the way they do it. Their attention to detail shines in the meat temperature and the caramelisation of fats. It’s not too sweet or salty. It’s perfect.

6. The Grill, New York 

The Grill sits in the Seagram Building on 52nd Street, next to the Pool Lounge. It’s quintessential New York and has a powerful, magnetic feeling to it. I love its design and retro furniture – very American modernist. The service is insanely good: they make you feel very welcome. With big cuts of steak, amazing salads, a huge dessert trolley and a big wine list, they’ve crystallised the New York steakhouse experience. It’s perfect for a power lunch or blowout dinner.