"Vietnam is an endless source of inspiration," says Cortizas. "The street life, the food, the people, the landscape. Every day is an adventure, especially in Hanoi. The city is like a mirror: if you have fresh ideas and good feelings, Hanoi will reflect them."

His boutique is on Naha Chieu, a zesty strip right in the heart of the old city where innovative small businesses are busy wresting sales from tourist shops hawking bamboo hats and ‘Good morning Vietnam’ T-shirts. Next door to Chula, for instance, local writer Nga Hoang and her photographer partner Liem Tram recently established Collective Memory, a veritable bazaar of curios displayed artfully against exposed brick walls, appealing to more discerning visitors than the average boozy backpacker.

"I worked as a journalist and would often interview people who created these lovely handicrafts," says Nga, as we explore shelves stocked with artisanal products such as Saigon Charlie’s hot sauce, Kuo cooperative coffee and Le Mai soaps. "When I said I’d like to open a shop, they agreed I’d be perfect for it. Basically I look for things that have a story to tell."