And upending expectations is exactly what Beta’s executive chef Raymond Tham hopes to achieve. “The Malaysian mindset is if you don’t serve foie gras, truffle or expensive French chicken like poulet de Bresse, you’re not fine dining,” he says. “I love it when customers tell us they didn’t know that we could come up with something so different with something very Malaysian, where the flavours bring back childhood memories.”

It’s hard to change mindsets, but chefs like Tham are determined to bring a whole new depth and breadth to tables in Kuala Lumpur with the rich bounty of Malaysia’s terroir.

Sean Yoong, who has run food review website Eat Drink KL since 2009, says he’s seen a lot more experimentation in the local dining scene over the past decade. KL is joining the ranks of cities that care about culinary creativity coupled with a sense of conscientiousness,” he says. “Diners appreciate chefs who come up with inventive, inspiring fare, whether it’s playful reinterpretations of classic local recipes or clever new creations that make surprising use of local produce.”