Nanluoguxiang: Worth the hype?

The most famous hutong in Gulou is Nanluoguxiang. As a result, it is a victim of over-tourism: expect to battle crowds. Thankfully, the intersecting side alleys that criss-cross Nanlougu fishbone-style are quieter and even more alluring, home to enticing finds like Great Leap Brewing (6 Doujiao Hutong), Beijing’s first craft brewpub. The walled courtyard garden is a lovely spot to try beer infused with locally sourced ingredients such as Chinese bark cinnamon and Sichuan peppercorns.

Nearby, you can duck into the former residence of Qi Baishi (13 Yu’er Hutong), an influential Chinese painter who lived in Beijing in the early 1900s. An exhibition tells the story of his life, while the courtyard invites you to linger a while over a cup of jasmine tea. For something a bit livelier, seek out Jiang Hu (7 Dongmianhua Hutong), a bohemian music lounge in an old hutong home, where local musicians come to jam and drink late into the night.

Another way to skip the crowds is to head north to Beiluoguxiang, where you’ll find third-wave cafés like Voyage Coffee (80 Beiluoguxiang) and chilled- out cocktail bars like Mai Bar (40 Beiluoguxiang), all atmospheric timber beams and flickering candles.