Bangladesh’s lively capital may be notorious for its traffic jams, but its packed streets conceal a rich and culturally diverse history. Venture beyond the crowds and you’ll find stunning Mughal-era monuments, historic university grounds, deliciously decadent cuisine, and warm local hospitality.
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Credit: Getty Images
Here are five unique ways to immerse yourself in the charm of this bustling metropolis. To make the most of your visit, beat the traffic by hiring your own vehicle.
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Credit: Getty Images
Credit: Getty Images
Three hours from Dhaka, the city of Panam Nagar is a remarkable archaeological site with an extraordinary story attached to it. Featuring beautifully preserved Mughal-style architecture, Bengal’s former capital will take you on a hauntingly nostalgic journey through time.
Built by wealthy Hindu merchants in the 19th century, the city was a hub for the region’s thriving textile industry. Its story took a dark turn during the 1947 Bengal Divide, when the eruption of racial riots ultimately lead to the city’s abandonment. Today, this once-vibrant township stands empty, its buildings now echo of a time gone by. During your visit, be sure to check out the Folk Art and Craft Museum and the abandoned Goaldi Mosque , both just a short walk away.
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Credit: Getty Images
A foodie paradise, Puran Dhaka, or Old Dhaka, is home to some of the best Bangladeshi food in the city. Plan a full-day excursion that starts with an authentic lunch at Beauty Boarding , famous for being the haunt of Bangladeshi writers and poets in the 1940s. Try its signature bhorta spread, consisting of mashed veggies in a pungent mustard oil. For dessert, hop on a rickshaw to Beauty Lassi on Johnson Road, a 100-year-old establishment serving deliciously tangy yoghurt lassi and zesty lemonades.
The afternoon can be spent strolling along the streets of Old Dhaka. As you wander, look out for a much-loved delicacy: bakarkhani. Part biscuit, part bread, these flaky delights are freshly baked in tandoors – traditional ovens – scattered throughout the district. For dinner, try fall-off-the-bone kacchi biryani at Kolkata Kacchi Ghor , or opt for a rich Mughal-inspired feast at Peshwarain featuring nihari stew with naan. Newer restaurants tend to be busier than the traditional joints, however, so allow some time for queueing.
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Dating back to 1921, Dhaka University is the oldest university in Bangladesh and is central to the country's independence movement. Its historic 240ha campus, once dubbed the ‘Oxford of the East’, is steeped in tradition. Put on your best walking shoes; you’ll want to spend the day exploring.
From the grand Central Library to the ornate Curzon Hall, Dhaka University houses a wealth of cultural and architectural splendour. To gain a deeper appreciation of its history, make a stopover at the Bangabandhu Memorial Museum or Bangladesh’s National Museum . If you’re feeling peckish, pick up some street food from around the campus, including fried phuchka from the Social Science premises, achar, or pickles, at the Hakim Chattar landmark, and chilli tea from the Teacher-Student Centre.
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A late-night drive followed by a midnight fish feast is a popular pastime among residents of Dhaka. Drive along Padma Bridge, the longest in Bangladesh and a modern-day landmark, and you’ll end up at Mawa Ghat. This vast ferry terminal is a hub for devotees of ilish, a national seafood delicacy.
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Credit: Getty Images
Credit: Getty Images
Here you can find ilish of every type cooked in any style you like, from shorshe (prepared with mustard oil) to ilish bhaja (deep-fried). Enjoy an authentic meal at one of the local restaurants at Mawa Ghat, or head to Project Hilsa for an upscale, yet equally tasty alternative.
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Credit: Getty Images
Ready to escape the chaos of the city? Board a traditional wooden Malar boat and enjoy a day cruise along the Dhaleshwari River. With only two of these ancient river boats in service for tourists, the chance to board one is a rare treat. A package deal with a local operator such as Contic includes transport to and from the boat and a Bengali-style breakfast and lunch, along with plenty of snacks.
From the deck, you’ll be able to admire the stunning waterfront scenery while lounging on comfy daybeds, or challenge your friends to a game of carrom, Bangladesh’s version of chess. The journey also includes a stop at a small char, or sand bank, where you can sink your toes in the sand and soak up the peaceful ambience of the river.