A contemporary guide to New Delhi

New Delhi is an old city with new life constantly being breathed into it. Think high-tech museums, freshly restored heritage buildings, packed performance arts calendars and pop-up markets in historic gardens. Trendy restaurants are eager to showcase the best of modern Indian cuisine, while returning travellers will be relieved to find old favourites haven’t gone anywhere.  

Read on for the best places to go in New Delhi, India’s buzzing capital city. 

What to see 

Since the 1600s, the magnificent domes and turrets of the Red Fort have defined Old Delhi’s skyline, when the grand citadel of the Mughal Empire held treasures and secrets, seeing empires rise and fall. Now, it is the setting for a brand-new immersive light and sound show. Jai Hind takes audiences through the history of India with live dancing and music, larger-than-life puppets and laser light projections. Meanwhile, restored British-era barracks house the shiny new Red Fort Centre – a high-tech museum with immersive, AR-enhanced exhibits that trace the many stories of Delhi.  

In the heart of Central Delhi, the grand former homes of maharajas have been reimagined as cool public spaces. Bikaner House , located just outside the iconic India Gate hexagon, was built as the Delhi residence of the Maharaja of Bikaner in the early 1900s. The building fuses colonial architecture with Rajasthani styles, with a sunshine yellow façade, domed cupolas, and lavish ballrooms. It now serves as a space for businesses including a craft boutique, restaurant and a café, while also hosting art exhibits, book readings, and other cultural events.  

India Gate itself is also a striking piece of memorial architecture, completed in 1931 to honour fallen Indian soldiers who fought in World War One. Visitors pass under its gigantic arch to pay their respects at the Amar Jawan Jyoti, where an eternal flame had burned for five decades as tribute to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The flame was recently merged with one at the newly built National War Memorial just 400 metres away.  

What to eat 

Delhi is undoubtedly India’s food capital, a microcosm of the country and its varied culinary traditions. Butter chicken may reign supreme – and it is unmissable – but alongside this hearty North Indian dish, you’ll also find light, coconut-infused flavours from the south of India, spicy soups and noodles from the northeast, and rich curries from the coast.  

Institutions like Bukhara at the ITC Maurya Hotel serve kebabs and curries from the northwest frontier, while inventive new spots like Bhawan celebrate Indian street food. At the latter, you’ll find fresh takes on chaat-style snacks like crispy spinach with curd, or raw mango with puffed rice, perfectly paired with cocktails that showcase unusual regional ingredients like kasundi mustard and Himachal apples. Over at The Lodhi, you’ll want to book in for a table at Indian Accent to experience modern Indian cuisine – there's a reason it’s been recognised as one of Asia’s Top 50 Best Restaurants . 

For a taste of the south, head to the tranquil Coast Café , tucked in the by-lanes of the buzzy Hauz Khas Village. It offers Kerala-style curries infused with kokum and coconut milk, a plethora of seafood dishes, and light-as-air appam, or rice pancakes. Meanwhile, the urban village of Humayunpur is an up-and-coming enclave that promises an immersive food experience. In its labyrinth of alleys, tiny restaurants jostle for space, serving wholesome thali meals from Assam and spicy Nepali-inspired dishes in cosy settings.

What to do 

In the narrow lanes of Old Delhi, restored haveli mansions now function as educational spaces, showcasing the history and performance arts traditions of the old city. Kathika Cultural Centre has carefully preserved two crumbling heritage structures, maintaining the scalloped arches and tiled floors, and filling the interiors with art pieces. Events at the centre include traditional kathak dance shows and tabla music performances, as well as workshops and book readings. Explore the leafy courtyards and ornate hallways of these Old Delhi homes, before settling down to watch an Indian classical dance performance or music recital. 

Humayun’s Tomb is among Delhi’s must-visit landmarks, and right next door is the lovely heritage park Sunder Nursery . After extensive restoration, this 35-hectare green space dotted with 16th-century tombs and monuments is now the city’s prime gathering spot, with a packed calendar of cultural events. Autumn and winter are the best time to visit, when the roses are in full bloom, butterflies are seen in abundance, and the weather is pleasant enough for picnics. Visit the weekend farmers’ market, explore the wilderness zones, attend a pottery workshop, or sit back and listen to some live music.