Shanghai

Step back in time at the Fairmont Peace Hotel, a stately landmark which graciously resides over a city that has modernized around it. Built by Sassoon heir Victor in 1929, its Art Deco grandeur attracted superstars like Charlie Chaplin back in the day; now, the glitz and glamour lives on with luxurious rooms and the world-famous Old Jazz Band that plays in its bar. Six restaurants and bars ensure there’s plenty of dining options to choose from or check out their Jasmine Lounge for afternoon tea.

Home decor enthusiasts and design buffs should head straight to Design Republic, a furniture store, event space, restaurant and one-room hotel housed in a former police station. Don’t let the building’s imposing brick facade fool you – architecture studio Neri&Hu transformed the interior into a minimalist sanctuary of white paint, metal sheeting and glass walls. Shop to your heart’s content then grab a bite at The Commune Social, a fashionable restaurant on the ground floor that brings a casual approach to fine dining. Tired after all that? Check into the seriously chic – and exclusive – one-room hotel with 24-hour butler service.

Housed in a futuristic six-storey building on the perimeter of People's Square, the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Centre showcases the city's metropolitan development and is a must-see for anyone interested in architecture, urbanism and even science fiction. Over by the the Huangpu River, the annual Shanghai International Literary Festival is a heady celebration of English language fiction, literary non-fiction, journalism and poetry. The Yuz Museum is another memorable outing for cultured types, showcasing the private collection of Chinese-Indonesian art collector Budi Tek in a vast former hangar. For the more dramatically inclined, make the trip to Suzhou for Water Heavens – a spectacular show that melds music and architecture in an exquisite auditorium that mimics an ancient home from the Ming Dynasty.

Soak up the ambience at Shanghai Classical Hotel, a charmingly old-fashioned establishment that’s been serving up steaming hot xiaolongbao and other Shanghainese specialities since 1875. Little wonder that its acclaim has spread far and wide – it counts the first lady of Russia, as well as the Indonesian and Singaporean presidents, as guests. Another hallowed institution, Hong Chang Xing was founded in 1891 by a relative of the famous Peking Opera star Ma Lianliang who decided to capitalize on the troupe’s dietary demands with a local joint. These days, its steamy mutton hotpot swimming in a clear broth draws diners back time and again. Dating back to the 18th century, Wang Bao He Restaurant is renowned for two things: its status as one of the city’s oldest restaurants and an impressive number of crab-based dishes.

Hipster fishmonger Little Catch had already built a sterling reputation for its sustainably sourced seafood when the family business decided to serve fish as well as sell it. Pull up a stool at either of their Wulumuqi Lu or Taixing Lu eateries and chow down on the Dynamite Tuna poke. Comprised of fresh tuna, spicy mayo, tobiko roe and cashews on a bed of rice, health nuts will be happy to hear that their rice can be substituted with grains and extra toppings like avocado added.

At just six kuai for four dumplings, the shengjianbao at this extremely popular local institution draws the crowds for a reason. With their thin wrappers, tasty pork and soup filling, and a golden-brown fried underside, dumplings don't get better than these. Order a bowl of beef-and-coriander broth to accompany them.

Clichéd? Perhaps, but the acrobatic feats performed at multimillion-dollar show "ERA: Intersec-tion of Time" are no less impressive for that. Somersaulting, hoop diving, porcelain-jar juggling and mind-bending bodily contortions are just a few of the highlights at this multimedia extravaganza.

Speakeasies are a dime-a-dozen in Shanghai, but hidden behind a tiny cocktail supplies shop on Fuxing Zhong Lu, Speak Low is a hit with in-the-know Shanghainese. To enter the bar, simply slide the shop’s bookcase open and be-hold a stylish, dimly lit watering hole. Exacting cocktail lovers are in safe hands – Japanese founder Shingo Gokan worked as a mixologist at another legendary speakeasy in New York City before returning to Asia to establish his own place. The second floor is boisterous and better-priced while the third and fourth floors are sleek and seriously expensive.

It would be a travesty to visit Shanghai and leave without the photos to prove it so it’s lucky that budding photographers can find the equipment they need at Xing Guang Photographic Equip-ment City. This Aladdin's cave of independently-run stores is crammed full of vintage cameras, like the medium-format Seagull cameras. Manufactured by the oldest camera-maker in China, they are, arguably, works of art themselves.

M on the Bund has been delighting diners with its extravagant weekend brunches ever since the restaurant opened in 1999. Start with a stiff cocktail before plunging into the menu, which includes sautéed chicken liver, smoked baby octopus, and steak tartare, as well as more traditional brunch fare. Book ahead to secure a spot on the outdoor terrace – its sweeping views across the Bund are worth the hassle.

Sample Yunnan cuisine – an amalgamation of the cuisines of ethnic minorities in China – to challenge your preconceptions of Chinese food. At the much-loved Southern Barbarian, cuisine from China’s mountainous southern Yunnan Province is served up in unpretentious surrounds. Fried goat cheese, "grandma's mashed potatoes", smoky, cold eggplant and tomato, and the mint-leaf salad are all delightful, as are the grilled chicken wings. Mia’s Yunnan Kitchen brings a homestyle approach to Yunnan staples, with traditional ingredients like mushrooms and salty cured ham given loving care. Cheap and cheerful Lotus Eatery pushes its menu in a more adventurous direction with the inclusion of insect-based dishes while the aesthetically pleasing Lost Heaven is a romantic spot to try a few new dishes.

Start the weekend in style at Bar Rouge, a popular watering hole that captures the city’s vibrant Franco-Chinese identity. House beats, a well-heeled crowd and high-end cocktails make for a fun night, but it’s the outdoor terrace – with views of Shanghai’s futuristic skyline – that really distinguish it. Also located on the Bund, The Nest’s sharp cocktails and seafood-focused menu promises an equally sophisticated evening while shabby-chic vibes can be found at The Water-house, a boutique hotel in a converted warehouse. Its concrete shell exterior hides a modernist interior that includes a hip rooftop bar with panoramas of the river and surrounding neighborhood.

Oenophiles, rejoice – Kartel’s revolving door of high-quality wines will satisfy even the most demanding connoisseur. Focusing on biodynamic and organic vino, the bar’s extensive wine list is supplemented by a monthly selection of 18 wines by the glass. Nab a seat on the rooftop – the best in the former French Concession – order a plate of imported cold cuts and cheeses, and settle in for the night.

The former French Concession, a neighbourhood of leafy lanes and colonial-era villas, is home to many of the best fashion boutiques and quirky indie stores in the city. Changle Lu, Xinle Lu, and Jinxian Lu all boast interesting stores, but Fumin Lu has emerged as the place to be. Shanghai Fashion Week favourite Helen Lee is there, as is concept store The Hive, and Dong Liang Studio, which stocks indie darlings Sankuanz and Guangzhou-based label Ricostru. Around the corner on Julu Lu, Aegis Shanghai and S2VS are two of the hippest stores for menswear.

The Hongkou walking tour steps out from leafy Luxun Park and wanders through colonial quarters once favoured by the Japanese during their occupation. Also home to Shanghai’s substantial Jewish community prior to the revolution, this district provides a fascinating slice of local history. The leisurely three-hour amble takes in all the highlights.